You can do a modification with a dremel tool and a cone shaped> > rotary file, using the natural seat of the throttle plate and its'> > angle, you can remove the material from the throttle body into a> > con-caved shape but more flared near the top of the arch of the> > throttle plate. But you don't want to go no deeper than 1/8"into> > the throttle body. Measuring off the throttle plates natural seat.> > Perform the procedure to both sides of the throttle plate. The only> > critical area is the throttle plates' natural seat as you don't> > want to disturb it. And with grinding and polishing it shouldn't> > take a skilled person more than a couple of hours, including> > cleaning and replacing the throttle body back on the vehicle. If> > you need further assistance please feel free to call me.
the way the venturi is set up in a carburetor is that it is cast molded. This process leave seams and some casting slag which restrict air flow. So I would try to retain the original dimensions for the narrowest part of the venturi while grinding down the seams and slag and then polish those areas in order that the air would tend to stick to the surface until it hits the throttle plate where the air then is effected by the lip that you design into the throttle body. In which creates a swirling effect that I refer to as turbo effect as it does allow more air in and the turbulence causes the available fuel mixture to be vaporized and atomized better and more complete combustion that I have called combustion efficiency. As I have had this on a calibrated gas analyzer and the results where remarkable in that an unmodified vehicle would peg the meters when first accelerated and remained pegged for a few seconds then gradually come back within specs. But on my modified vehicle, the meters all jumped back the other way, And yes I mean no measurable amount emissions No CO carbon monoxide, and no HC Hexane (another word for unburnt fuel). As this is evidence of more efficient combustion.
The evidence that shows the increase in power and torque is the 150 to 250 rpm drop at 70 mph that I noted between the same vehicle before mod and after. As it has so much more power and torque that it doesn't require as many rpm to maintain 70 mph. And the rpm drop noted when A/C compressor is engaged before mod. And after the mod the rpm are more stable when the A/C compressoris engaged in that you can't hardly tell it.And then you can see how not having to throttle as much going up hills, A/C load or alternator stress, is going to save you gas, right? Even the curb idle speed is smoother and feels more powerful even at the same rpm. So you can definitely tell the difference. And then after you drive it a few miles after the modification. Stop somewhere where it is safe and leave it running and step out and you can even smell the difference, at the tailpipe.Now are you starting to see how this is going to effect your engine vacuum? Especially, under load and idling. It may appear to be idling faster because the rpm will not drop as much because of the increase in low rpm engine torque. And the same with the actual curb idle may be effected as well because of increase in combustion efficiency verified by increase in gas mileage, power and torque as well as performance.Now it might not be so bad to drive that vehicle more than 25,000 miles or 50,000 over 95,000 miles is what I got on my 2004 Blazer now. And still runs as good as when I first modified it. I'm not sure of how much of experience of mine that you want to hear so I'll leave it there for now and let you have chance to absorb that for awhile. And, I noticed that Mobil 1 is advertising on that PM site now that I said that about their extended performance oil. Of course, I didn't say anything about any other additives I use but the oil last for awhile. Even cheaper than changing it every 3,000 miles and Fram tuff guard filters will definitely go the 15,000 miles that Mobil 1 is guaranteed for as the 30,000 miles oil change that I just had. And this does lower the operating temperature as well by 5 to 10 degrees.And this modification put the control directly at your foot. As you can just lay your foot on the pedal and think about how fast you want to go and you still get gas mileage. As it doesn't take as much throttle to maintain the speed.With this modification, I am taking advantage several things here. I'm using the original equipment and you can't tell it by looking at it. And I am using the aerodynamic design to accomplish this a lot less parts to go wrong or fail nor is there any unusual maintenance. Therefore, more reliable.And this can even be mass produced by building molds and production machinist. A very simple modification to be such a benefit.All you got to do is try it and see what it does as I believe you will be amazed at the performance. And it works best with the older style throttle body injected kind, found on most 90 model Chevy trucks as the fuel is more directly effected by the turbulence at the throttle plate as opposed to port fuel injection. It still works but not as good."
And I should have said "It still works but not as good."without HHO.
TBI and computerized throttling; It works on anything with a throttle plate. You do it the same way. But if yours doesn't have a throttle cable. then it gets harder and you do have to do it different as it has wire which is called drive by wire system. Then you have to allow for the computer controlling the throttle. As the computer will give it more throttle when the A/C compressor kicks it. Just go up off the throttles' natural seat and mark it at about a 1/2" above the top of the throttle plate on it seat and then raise the throttle plate to your mark and mark it all the way round and then start there. Do it exactly like I said to do it for Carbs. And you may have to work with it to get the throttle response where you want it. I had to go inside and actually shim the throttle to rest lower towards its seat. As the computerized throttle has gears and the throttle shaft is engaged with those gears and the throttle shaft is at rest up off its seat. And don't try to use the throttle plate as a rest for your dremel tool. As it will damage the top edge of the plate and cause your rpm to go up at idle. If your carb has a throttle plate incorporated with your slider type Carb., it will work as I have done these type of motorcycle Carbs before and got very good results. And I haven't really tried to mod just the slider-type, itself. But I'm fairly sure that if we flow port the back-side(intake-side) of the carb to create that venturi-effect just on that side only. Then it may show some improvement over it's original design... Here is some related info, in case you're interested.Since we have concluded that torque and horsepower are the right way to figure this then if you take 11.22 seconds and the weight of that vehicle which is 3750 lbs. And it took that 11.22 seconds to drive 1000 feet. I come up with almost 600 hp being delivered to the rear wheels. And the cam that I put in that 327 bored out .060 which makes it a 337 cu. in. is rated at 1.2 hp per cu. in. That should only be putting a little over 400 hp at the flywheel. So that means that there is almost 200 hp that is unaccounted for unless you figure it is due to the carburetor modification. No nitrous or turbo or hydrogen generator just pump gas. With 3.73 gears and 350 TH automatic transmission. And still got 25 mpg on the highway. And that's not figuring for aerodynamic losses since it is a 1980 model Chevy step-side C-10 Truck. Tony Christian said it took over 300 hp to overcome the aerodynamic drag between his 1957 Bel-Air Chevy And his corvette. That truck has a lot more of an aerodynamic drag than that 57 Chevy. And I'm sure that the truck weighs more than that 57 Chevy too. Also this engine had 30,000 miles on it's last rebuild before I did the noted spec's so this is far from a fresh engine especially in racing terms. BTW, to give those who don't know a LT1 corvette with manual shift, ET is 13.38 in 1320 feet. Now using the rule of thumb add 2 seconds to my ET and that's what it runs in the 1/4 mile. Which would show that the trucks' 13.22 would still beat the LT1 in the same 1320 feet. And it should be noted here that the loss of hp through the torque converter on the automatic transmission and the difference of the manual shift is only 4%. Here is the formula to figure your hp or torque: http://www.largiader.com/articles/torque.html/ http://www.smokstak.com/articles/torque.html http://www.vettenet.org/torquehp.html And if you crunch those numbers and see what you come up with. As it requires almost 600hp to push 3750lbs.(which is the weight of my truck) in 11.22 seconds(which is my ET) over the distance of 1000 ft. And that is not figuring for aerodynamic drag or power train losses.
May 7, 2009 at 1:04 pmYou can do a modification with a dremel tool and a cone shaped> > rotary file, using the natural seat of the throttle plate and its’> > angle, you can remove the material from the throttle body into a> > con-caved shape but more flared near the top of the arch of the> > throttle plate. But you don’t want to go no deeper than 1/8″into> > the throttle body. Measuring off the throttle plates natural seat.> > Perform the procedure to both sides of the throttle plate. The only> > critical area is the throttle plates’ natural seat as you don’t> > want to disturb it. And with grinding and polishing it shouldn’t> > take a skilled person more than a couple of hours, including> > cleaning and replacing the throttle body back on the vehicle. If> > you need further assistance please feel free to call me.
the way the venturi is set up in a carburetor is that it is cast molded. This process leave seams and some casting slag which restrict air flow. So I would try to retain the original dimensions for the narrowest part of the venturi while grinding down the seams and slag and then polish those areas in order that the air would tend to stick to the surface until it hits the throttle plate where the air then is effected by the lip that you design into the throttle body. In which creates a swirling effect that I refer to as turbo effect as it does allow more air in and the turbulence causes the available fuel mixture to be vaporized and atomized better and more complete combustion that I have called combustion efficiency. As I have had this on a calibrated gas analyzer and the results where remarkable in that an unmodified vehicle would peg the meters when first accelerated and remained? pegged for a few seconds then gradually come back within specs. But on my modified vehicle, the meters all jumped back the other way, And yes I mean no measurable amount emissions No CO carbon monoxide, and no HC Hexane (another word for unburnt fuel). As this is evidence of more efficient combustion.
The evidence that shows the increase in power and torque is the 150 to 250 rpm drop at 70 mph that I noted between the same vehicle before mod and after. As it has so much more power and torque that it doesn’t require as many rpm to maintain 70 mph. And the rpm drop noted when A/C compressor is engaged before mod. And after the mod the rpm are more stable when the A/C compressoris engaged in that you can’t hardly tell it.And then you can see how not having to throttle as much going up hills, A/C load or alternator stress, is going to save you gas, right? Even the curb idle speed is smoother and feels more powerful even at the same rpm. So you can definitely tell the difference. And then after you drive it a few miles after the modification. Stop somewhere where it is safe and leave it running and step out and you can even smell the difference, at the tailpipe.Now are you starting to see how this is going to effect your engine vacuum? Especially, under load and idling. It may appear to be idling faster because the rpm will not drop as much because of the increase in low rpm engine torque. And the same with the actual curb idle may be effected as well because of increase in combustion efficiency verified by increase in gas mileage, power and torque as well as performance.Now it might not be so bad to drive that vehicle more than 25,000 miles or 50,000 over 95,000 miles is what I got on my 2004 Blazer now. And still runs as good as when I first modified it. I’m not sure of how much of experience of mine that you want to hear so I’ll leave it there for now and let you have chance to absorb that for awhile. And, I noticed that Mobil 1 is advertising on that PM site now that I said that about their extended performance oil. Of course, I didn’t say anything about any other additives I use but the oil last for awhile. Even cheaper than changing it every 3,000 miles and Fram tuff guard filters will definitely go the 15,000 miles that Mobil 1 is guaranteed for as the 30,000 miles oil change that I just had. And this does lower the operating temperature as well by 5 to 10 degrees.And this modification put the control directly at your foot. As you can just lay your foot on the pedal and think about how fast you want to go and you still get gas mileage. As it doesn’t take as much throttle to maintain the speed.With this modification, I am taking advantage several things here. I’m using the original equipment and you can’t tell it by looking at it. And I am using the aerodynamic design to accomplish this a lot less parts to go wrong or fail nor is there any unusual maintenance. Therefore, more reliable.And this can even be mass produced by building molds and production machinist. A very simple modification to be such a benefit.All you got to do is try it and see what it does as I believe you will be amazed at the performance. And it works best with the older style throttle body injected kind, found on most 90 model Chevy trucks as the fuel is more directly effected by the turbulence at the throttle plate as opposed to port fuel injection. It still works but not as good.”
And I should have said “It still works but not as good.”without HHO.
135. RE: Why Water Won’t Improve Your MPG: A PM and Dateline NBC InvestigationWebsite: http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCarbJBMrCarbJB Joined: 31 Jul 2008 Posts: 412 Location: De Kalb, Texas Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 11:59 am Post subject: HHO Works !!! minutiae59 wrote: You could use one of these. And to get technical here, what he is talking about is raising cylinder pressure. The compression ratio is a set constant determined by the cylinder and camshaft design characteristics. Compression ratio never changes. Cylinder pressure does. But put on your critical thinking hat for a moment. Take a naturally aspirated 4-cyl 1.6L engine and assume 70% VE. At idle (say 600 RPM) each cylinder is drawing in roughly 0.28 liters of air/fuel mixture. A typical HHO system generates 1 liter of gas per minute, of which 2/3 is hydrogen. This means the volume of H2 gas added to each cylinder firing event is 0.0005583 liters, or about one-half milliliter. This insignificant quantity of H2 isn’t surrounding the rest of the mixture as has been claimed and it isn’t causing the gasoline to burn faster. What it most likely is doing is flashing off instantly. There simply isn’t enough H2 in the cylinder to have any appreciable effect. And remember, this is based on a small engine at low speed. Since the hydrogen generation is constant, as engine speed increases, the quantity of H2 in each cylinder decreases. At 2000 RPM it is 0.0001675 liters. Also, as engine displacement increases, the ratio of hydrogen to total cylinder volume decreases. Some Pop Rocks candy would probably yield a bigger bang. Now you’re correct but what you don’t understand what the effect is on that cylinder pressure increased so much more that it will effect compression in the same way it boost oil pressure when it runs better all is effected, right or have you ever been a tune-up specialist who has played with acetone in a squirt bottle… And I do like your idea of testing equipment, would be delighted to hear about your results when you test yours… As you will need to established a good baseline noting all parameters effect anything which has an effect the combustion. Any increase in air velocity at intake from HO enrichment as you could instantly tell how much it takes to make an effect with and without HHO and then if you really wanted too, you could try this mod out and see how much of increase there is after it is applied…As I have said that it works pretty much how a turbo charger works as it does increase cylinder pressure so much that it does increase the compression ratio just like a turbo charger does but without the turbo or it’s lag or it’s drag as it makes throttle response so crisp that the difference is instantaneous. But what may be better is write Mike Allen to include it in their test as well. And test it with a multi cell electrolyzer like mine 44 plate total array Set -+-+-+-+-+-, +-+-+-+-+-+, -+-+-+-+-+-, +-+-+-+-+-+. In 11 plate parrallel circuits attached with 10 mm ss scews 24 thread to an inch and tap with same all wired with 10 guage wire stranded, with all wiring connections in contact with water are sealed, 3.5″ X 5″ which are 22 guage plates, with nylon 1/4″ bolts 20 to in. and 1/16 nylon washers as spacers and better known as a wet cell. All Grounds are common so when not in use can still produce H2 as long as one 11 plate circuit is engaged. And all positive circuit loaded thru 4-40 amps relays carrying load with load side attached by a 30 amp automotive circuit breaker, in which all relays are controlled from 4 switches mounted on the dash in which you can see the possibilities here in that any number of ways to control amps and Hydrogen production as you can definitely tell the difference under load pulling hills as it won’t pull the engine down to make it down shift thus confirming more power and torque… And even had too shut down 2 cells just to stay under legal limits, especially at 35 mph and 45 mph speed limit construction sites even under loads were the best way to get thru them or you could just burn the brakes up by applying them enough to keep you under the limit. And this setup was on a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 full crew cab 4 dr. 8100 (502 cu. in.) motor. How much do you think it would need to have an effect and it is computerized throttling better known as Drive-by-wire system…As it was equipped with the fuel transducser that had direct monitering access where you can view instant gas mileage from all those sensor. Funny how that thing went to reading way above anything it was ever dsigned for…After Mod. And way more under the effects of the HHO electrolyzer described above…And the best I ever got using the method mentioned here Noted with Marc 1. And mentioned else where herein. It got 7.2 mpg with no load and 3.8 mpg with 3300lb RV. The way it came from the factory. After mod. it got between 12 and 13 mpg with no load and low winds resistance as all were all gains noted so as even the ones noted for the way it came from factory as these are the best readings as wind resistance was noted on several occasions saw many big rig laying on sides up and down the Hwys from Elkhart, IN. to Ft. Worth, TX. And when I put the 4-cell electrolyzer it went to 19.233 mpg with no load and 13.69 mpg with a load of 11,180 llb. Which is over 2000 miles round trip. So I got a chance to check it really good with only a 26 gal’ truck tank and they stay fairly consistant as I was having to start looking for a gas station every 100 miles under load and better have found one in a 100 miles with that wind blowing head winds from both ways depending on the weather as well as I have ran in it all with 42 deliveries for that company over a 6 mo. period from October to March 2008. So it was mostly over the winter months… And you know on that year model the A/C compressor comes on any time you have the heater on…So tell me Mr. Engineer, how did I do that if it doesn’t work like I said it does…
http://www.motorists.org/blog/300-mpg-or-conspiracy-theory/comment-page-1/#comment-13733
James Bryer says: May 9, 2009 at 9:54 amAnd what makes this so significant is that the 2003 models as many others were designed to use the throttle plate like a Jake Brake in order to control the speed of you vehicle to maintain that control such as going up and down hills it will so effect combustion in order to maintain drag going down hill even under load, with the cruise control on or off…This really kills you ability to try to use that coasting effect to gain any gas mileage at all. As the use of this modification with the addition of the gas produce from the electrolysis of said electrolyzer will overcome this design feature of the manufactures’ and achieve that ultra-lean burn effect which will effect overall efficiency…
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCarbJB